I owe if to be paid off about 23 K in student loans.. Should I save and invest, or pay the balance off as quickly as possible>?? Student Loans charging 141 month over 20 years is about 33K. If I pay more, should I, or is placing 4 hundred, into a Roth a better idea?? Bottom line I owe, Sallie Mae about 23K.. and I don't like owing anyone.
Help?? Do I pay down the student loan vigerously, or do I save for the mortgage payment???
0
To remove first post, remove entire topic.
I owe if to be paid off about 23 K in student loans.. Should I save and invest, or pay the balance off as quickly as possible>?? Student Loans charging 141 month over 20 years is about 33K. If I pay more, should I, or is placing 4 hundred, into a Roth a better idea?? Bottom line I owe, Sallie Mae about 23K.. and I don't like owing anyone.
Help?? Do I pay down the student loan vigerously, or do I save for the mortgage payment???
pay off your higher interest debts first. student loans are usually very low interest. so if you have any credit card debt or car payments or anything like that, pay those off before your student loans
0
pay off your higher interest debts first. student loans are usually very low interest. so if you have any credit card debt or car payments or anything like that, pay those off before your student loans
1. What if your interest rate? 2. Can you tax deduct some or all of the interest?
Most likely I would say don't pay. I have more student loans than you and not even considering paying it down. I'm around 5% and can deduct a portion of the interest. I can earn better than that. Roths are good because you can always pull back the contribution if you need to.
0
1. What if your interest rate? 2. Can you tax deduct some or all of the interest?
Most likely I would say don't pay. I have more student loans than you and not even considering paying it down. I'm around 5% and can deduct a portion of the interest. I can earn better than that. Roths are good because you can always pull back the contribution if you need to.
I'm in the same boat as you man. I finally stepped up this past month and to hold of ALL my finances, as all of my 40k in loans have become live. Here's what I did:
1. I set up an online savings account with HSBC which I earn 5.05% on. It also has a Bill Payment account hooked up to it, which I earn 2.5% on money that's sitting there ready to pay my phone, electric, water, etc. bills. the money can be transfered instantly between the 2 accounts.
2. I just got a Bass Pro Shops Visa, with a high enough limit to consolidate all 3 of my existing credit cards. It has an introductory 0% APR for a year, which will allow me to apply over $100 per month towards the principal, which I was previously paying in interest monthly. That's $1200+ I'll pay off just this year alone. I got them to waive most of the 3% balance transfer they charge, which was a huge bonus as well. this will allow me to pay those fuckers off in no time.
As far as your question goes, I would definitely pay off the school loans last. You're only paying like 5.5% on the federal loans, which could be close to your entire 23k, and any private loans are around 8.25%. If you do have privates, pay those first. That'll save you some dough there. Then start on your federal ones.
It sounds like your looking to buy a house? You mentioned Mortgage? If that's the case, then save as much as you possibly can, to put down a down payment on the house. If you can reach that magical 20% down on the house, you can eliminate over $200 a month, by getting rid of the PMI your lender will charge you.
Koaj, let me know if there's anything else you may recommend, as I am all ears on more educated ways to handle things.
0
I'm in the same boat as you man. I finally stepped up this past month and to hold of ALL my finances, as all of my 40k in loans have become live. Here's what I did:
1. I set up an online savings account with HSBC which I earn 5.05% on. It also has a Bill Payment account hooked up to it, which I earn 2.5% on money that's sitting there ready to pay my phone, electric, water, etc. bills. the money can be transfered instantly between the 2 accounts.
2. I just got a Bass Pro Shops Visa, with a high enough limit to consolidate all 3 of my existing credit cards. It has an introductory 0% APR for a year, which will allow me to apply over $100 per month towards the principal, which I was previously paying in interest monthly. That's $1200+ I'll pay off just this year alone. I got them to waive most of the 3% balance transfer they charge, which was a huge bonus as well. this will allow me to pay those fuckers off in no time.
As far as your question goes, I would definitely pay off the school loans last. You're only paying like 5.5% on the federal loans, which could be close to your entire 23k, and any private loans are around 8.25%. If you do have privates, pay those first. That'll save you some dough there. Then start on your federal ones.
It sounds like your looking to buy a house? You mentioned Mortgage? If that's the case, then save as much as you possibly can, to put down a down payment on the house. If you can reach that magical 20% down on the house, you can eliminate over $200 a month, by getting rid of the PMI your lender will charge you.
Koaj, let me know if there's anything else you may recommend, as I am all ears on more educated ways to handle things.
I believe you are getting great advice here. It would help to know your interest rate on the loans. But for everyone I know of they are paying 5% or less.
I'm kind of in the same boat myself. But instead I have about 30K in business debt that I'm paying a 3.99% fixed rate for the balance of the loan. At that rate I will pay the absolute min. until it's payed off. Why should you put more money towards a 3.99% when you can get 5.05% just letting it sit.
0
I believe you are getting great advice here. It would help to know your interest rate on the loans. But for everyone I know of they are paying 5% or less.
I'm kind of in the same boat myself. But instead I have about 30K in business debt that I'm paying a 3.99% fixed rate for the balance of the loan. At that rate I will pay the absolute min. until it's payed off. Why should you put more money towards a 3.99% when you can get 5.05% just letting it sit.
dont know if this will help either, but try reconsolidating. it seems like 5% on a student loan is high! i am only paying 3.125% back on mine. cant remember what it was before reconsolidation, though. GL with however you handle it.
0
dont know if this will help either, but try reconsolidating. it seems like 5% on a student loan is high! i am only paying 3.125% back on mine. cant remember what it was before reconsolidation, though. GL with however you handle it.
hoops...the trouble with a lot of this economic theory is that you need major bucks to make some of this stuff work
if your student loans are locked 3.5% and you can get 5% in a savings account...just deposit money in the savings account and use the interest payments to pay off your student loan...you need big money to make this work though...for small dollars its not worth the time and hassle to set a lot of these things up
0
hoops...the trouble with a lot of this economic theory is that you need major bucks to make some of this stuff work
if your student loans are locked 3.5% and you can get 5% in a savings account...just deposit money in the savings account and use the interest payments to pay off your student loan...you need big money to make this work though...for small dollars its not worth the time and hassle to set a lot of these things up
dont know if this will help either, but try reconsolidating. it seems
like 5% on a student loan is high! i am only paying 3.125% back on
mine.
ogmike- You obviously have graduated before 2006. Unfortunately for us recent grads, I think we have suffered 2 very significant hikes in the last 2 summers. I believe last summer alone, it went up well over 1%. When I refinanced all my Federal Stafford Loans, back in March, the ABSOLUTE lowest you could lock in as 5.25%, and thats only if all you previous loans were lower than that, which would have been from AGES ago. Actually, I just looked, and mine are locked in at 6.625%. Current Stafford Loan rates are at 6.8%. Now, I'll get a .5% reduction for automatic draft, and after 36 months another .25% or something, for making my payments on time, but we are really getting the shaft.
Koaj- I totally understand what you're saying. I was just wondering if you had any little tidbits or ideas that may save a newbie some money. I think what I've already done is amazing. By consolidating my credit cards onto the 0% one, I'm saving over $105 per month in interest, that I can apply directly to the principal. That's $1200+ for the year. And to me, thats a pretty nice chunk of money.
And instead of my bill money sitting in my Free Student Checking Account collecting nothing but dust, I set up that savings/bill pay account that earns me some interest. I know I'm not going to make much off it, nor am I expecting to, but making a few dollars a month off money I owe someone else? Why not?
I was just wondering if you had anything else from your experiences that I could look into.
0
dont know if this will help either, but try reconsolidating. it seems
like 5% on a student loan is high! i am only paying 3.125% back on
mine.
ogmike- You obviously have graduated before 2006. Unfortunately for us recent grads, I think we have suffered 2 very significant hikes in the last 2 summers. I believe last summer alone, it went up well over 1%. When I refinanced all my Federal Stafford Loans, back in March, the ABSOLUTE lowest you could lock in as 5.25%, and thats only if all you previous loans were lower than that, which would have been from AGES ago. Actually, I just looked, and mine are locked in at 6.625%. Current Stafford Loan rates are at 6.8%. Now, I'll get a .5% reduction for automatic draft, and after 36 months another .25% or something, for making my payments on time, but we are really getting the shaft.
Koaj- I totally understand what you're saying. I was just wondering if you had any little tidbits or ideas that may save a newbie some money. I think what I've already done is amazing. By consolidating my credit cards onto the 0% one, I'm saving over $105 per month in interest, that I can apply directly to the principal. That's $1200+ for the year. And to me, thats a pretty nice chunk of money.
And instead of my bill money sitting in my Free Student Checking Account collecting nothing but dust, I set up that savings/bill pay account that earns me some interest. I know I'm not going to make much off it, nor am I expecting to, but making a few dollars a month off money I owe someone else? Why not?
I was just wondering if you had anything else from your experiences that I could look into.
Thanks gentlemen. All of you offered some good, sound advice, and it helps knowing I am not the only one contemplating such matters. Sincerely appreciated your input.
0
Thanks gentlemen. All of you offered some good, sound advice, and it helps knowing I am not the only one contemplating such matters. Sincerely appreciated your input.
I owe if to be paid off about 23 K in student loans.. Should I save and invest, or pay the balance off as quickly as possible>?? Student Loans charging 141 month over 20 years is about 33K. If I pay more, should I, or is placing 4 hundred, into a Roth a better idea?? Bottom line I owe, Sallie Mae about 23K.. and I don't like owing anyone.
Help?? Do I pay down the student loan vigorously, or do I save for the mortgage payment???
2nd question: Say I stick with a 5% interest savings account .. continue to pay the loan minimum, doesn't the interest from my savings account effect my reportable income for said year? Interest income is taxable income .. just as the interest paid on the loan is deductible..
man I am so lost with this stuff. I am trying to make the right decision and not think about it for the next 5 years.
I think the Roth -IRA is the best bet, and I will continue to pay as much as possible (the minimum and some each month) to pay off the S loan .. it's at 4.25%
0
Quote Originally Posted by wizdumb2003:
I owe if to be paid off about 23 K in student loans.. Should I save and invest, or pay the balance off as quickly as possible>?? Student Loans charging 141 month over 20 years is about 33K. If I pay more, should I, or is placing 4 hundred, into a Roth a better idea?? Bottom line I owe, Sallie Mae about 23K.. and I don't like owing anyone.
Help?? Do I pay down the student loan vigorously, or do I save for the mortgage payment???
2nd question: Say I stick with a 5% interest savings account .. continue to pay the loan minimum, doesn't the interest from my savings account effect my reportable income for said year? Interest income is taxable income .. just as the interest paid on the loan is deductible..
man I am so lost with this stuff. I am trying to make the right decision and not think about it for the next 5 years.
I think the Roth -IRA is the best bet, and I will continue to pay as much as possible (the minimum and some each month) to pay off the S loan .. it's at 4.25%
dont know if this will help either, but try reconsolidating. it seems
like 5% on a student loan is high! i am only paying 3.125% back on
mine.
ogmike- You obviously have graduated before 2006. Unfortunately for us recent grads, I think we have suffered 2 very significant hikes in the last 2 summers. I believe last summer alone, it went up well over 1%. When I refinanced all my Federal Stafford Loans, back in March, the ABSOLUTE lowest you could lock in as 5.25%, and thats only if all you previous loans were lower than that, which would have been from AGES ago. Actually, I just looked, and mine are locked in at 6.625%. Current Stafford Loan rates are at 6.8%. Now, I'll get a .5% reduction for automatic draft, and after 36 months another .25% or something, for making my payments on time, but we are really getting the shaft.
Koaj- I totally understand what you're saying. I was just wondering if you had any little tidbits or ideas that may save a newbie some money. I think what I've already done is amazing. By consolidating my credit cards onto the 0% one, I'm saving over $105 per month in interest, that I can apply directly to the principal. That's $1200+ for the year. And to me, thats a pretty nice chunk of money.
And instead of my bill money sitting in my Free Student Checking Account collecting nothing but dust, I set up that savings/bill pay account that earns me some interest. I know I'm not going to make much off it, nor am I expecting to, but making a few dollars a month off money I owe someone else? Why not?
I was just wondering if you had anything else from your experiences that I could look into.
You are on the right mark young bra. Keep doing what you are doing, and ask for help when you are lost, or ask for guidance, when friends stop helping ... I appreciated your responses. Keep saving bro!
0
Quote Originally Posted by hoopsstar22:
dont know if this will help either, but try reconsolidating. it seems
like 5% on a student loan is high! i am only paying 3.125% back on
mine.
ogmike- You obviously have graduated before 2006. Unfortunately for us recent grads, I think we have suffered 2 very significant hikes in the last 2 summers. I believe last summer alone, it went up well over 1%. When I refinanced all my Federal Stafford Loans, back in March, the ABSOLUTE lowest you could lock in as 5.25%, and thats only if all you previous loans were lower than that, which would have been from AGES ago. Actually, I just looked, and mine are locked in at 6.625%. Current Stafford Loan rates are at 6.8%. Now, I'll get a .5% reduction for automatic draft, and after 36 months another .25% or something, for making my payments on time, but we are really getting the shaft.
Koaj- I totally understand what you're saying. I was just wondering if you had any little tidbits or ideas that may save a newbie some money. I think what I've already done is amazing. By consolidating my credit cards onto the 0% one, I'm saving over $105 per month in interest, that I can apply directly to the principal. That's $1200+ for the year. And to me, thats a pretty nice chunk of money.
And instead of my bill money sitting in my Free Student Checking Account collecting nothing but dust, I set up that savings/bill pay account that earns me some interest. I know I'm not going to make much off it, nor am I expecting to, but making a few dollars a month off money I owe someone else? Why not?
I was just wondering if you had anything else from your experiences that I could look into.
You are on the right mark young bra. Keep doing what you are doing, and ask for help when you are lost, or ask for guidance, when friends stop helping ... I appreciated your responses. Keep saving bro!
2nd question: Say I stick with a 5% interest savings account .. continue to pay the loan minimum, doesn't the interest from my savings account effect my reportable income for said year? Interest income is taxable income .. just as the interest paid on the loan is deductible..
man I am so lost with this stuff. I am trying to make the right decision and not think about it for the next 5 years.
I think the Roth -IRA is the best bet, and I will continue to pay as much as possible (the minimum and some each month) to pay off the S loan .. it's at 4.25%
You can get some CD's for a bit over 5%. Where you are at 4.25% it's not a great deal of difference from the top interest you can get from a CD or interest off a savings account. So you are not talking about major money unless you can put a ton in an account. So you just may want to hit that loan as hard as you can to get it off the books.
But I'm the type of person, that if I can even get an extra penny I will do it. Maybe you should look into one of those low transfer, fixed interest till you pay it off credit cards. I got an American Express Clear at a fixed 3.99% for the life of the balance of the transfer. That would be low enough where putting your extra money in a CD or higher interest saving's account would be the thing to do.
0
Quote Originally Posted by wizdumb2003:
2nd question: Say I stick with a 5% interest savings account .. continue to pay the loan minimum, doesn't the interest from my savings account effect my reportable income for said year? Interest income is taxable income .. just as the interest paid on the loan is deductible..
man I am so lost with this stuff. I am trying to make the right decision and not think about it for the next 5 years.
I think the Roth -IRA is the best bet, and I will continue to pay as much as possible (the minimum and some each month) to pay off the S loan .. it's at 4.25%
You can get some CD's for a bit over 5%. Where you are at 4.25% it's not a great deal of difference from the top interest you can get from a CD or interest off a savings account. So you are not talking about major money unless you can put a ton in an account. So you just may want to hit that loan as hard as you can to get it off the books.
But I'm the type of person, that if I can even get an extra penny I will do it. Maybe you should look into one of those low transfer, fixed interest till you pay it off credit cards. I got an American Express Clear at a fixed 3.99% for the life of the balance of the transfer. That would be low enough where putting your extra money in a CD or higher interest saving's account would be the thing to do.
But I'm the type of person, that if I can even get an extra penny I will do it.
Now that I've taken a significant pay cut by graduating, and getting a "real job", instead of waiting tables, I whole heartedly agree with this philosophy. I literally use to burn money, because, well, I could. Now, I'm constantly looking for ways to cut corners, even if its only for $50 a month.
0
Quote Originally Posted by Lippsman:
But I'm the type of person, that if I can even get an extra penny I will do it.
Now that I've taken a significant pay cut by graduating, and getting a "real job", instead of waiting tables, I whole heartedly agree with this philosophy. I literally use to burn money, because, well, I could. Now, I'm constantly looking for ways to cut corners, even if its only for $50 a month.
I'm not in my 30's but I've got plenty of experience regarding student
loans and getting them paid off. Graduated 2 years ago with 70k
in a private and about 20k in a Gov't loan. Have the
private down to 23k and hit the federal for the minimum since it's
consolidated at 3.5%. Should be done with the private by
next May at the latest....When the private is done I will pay double
the minimum each month to start getting that one heading toward's
0.
For your situation, I'd advise the following if at all possible(I'm
assuming you don't have any crazy CC debt. If you do, pay the
minimum on the student loan). If no other debt, read on......
Do not start out by paying the minimum. Instead, flip it
around. Find out what works for your budget each month that you
can "afford" to put against the loan. At least aim to pay $300 a
month to begin with(i'd advise more if possible). The point being
that you want the lump sum of your loan to decrease FASTER at the top
due to simple finance. Makes sense but I didn't this theory in
the thread.
Say you get it down to 10k, move your payment down to $300 a month.
It should take you about another 3 years at $300 to say good bye
to it fully. If you did $400 a month until 10k(3 years and 1
month) and then $300 after, it would only take about 6 years and a few
months to be done with the loan.
Much better than 20 years and I would think $260 over the minimum for 3
years and then $160 for the rest of the life of the loan wouldn't break
the bank.
I also agree with Hoopstar. Move all you can of your CC's onto a
0% offer. The CD stuff at 5% really seems like a hassle for the
little bit it would help. You need capitol to make that worth it
but many have said that in this thread.
GL with whatever you do Wiz
0
Wiz-
I'm not in my 30's but I've got plenty of experience regarding student
loans and getting them paid off. Graduated 2 years ago with 70k
in a private and about 20k in a Gov't loan. Have the
private down to 23k and hit the federal for the minimum since it's
consolidated at 3.5%. Should be done with the private by
next May at the latest....When the private is done I will pay double
the minimum each month to start getting that one heading toward's
0.
For your situation, I'd advise the following if at all possible(I'm
assuming you don't have any crazy CC debt. If you do, pay the
minimum on the student loan). If no other debt, read on......
Do not start out by paying the minimum. Instead, flip it
around. Find out what works for your budget each month that you
can "afford" to put against the loan. At least aim to pay $300 a
month to begin with(i'd advise more if possible). The point being
that you want the lump sum of your loan to decrease FASTER at the top
due to simple finance. Makes sense but I didn't this theory in
the thread.
Say you get it down to 10k, move your payment down to $300 a month.
It should take you about another 3 years at $300 to say good bye
to it fully. If you did $400 a month until 10k(3 years and 1
month) and then $300 after, it would only take about 6 years and a few
months to be done with the loan.
Much better than 20 years and I would think $260 over the minimum for 3
years and then $160 for the rest of the life of the loan wouldn't break
the bank.
I also agree with Hoopstar. Move all you can of your CC's onto a
0% offer. The CD stuff at 5% really seems like a hassle for the
little bit it would help. You need capitol to make that worth it
but many have said that in this thread.
Good stuff fellas, nah, no credit card debt, haven't had a credit card in over 5 years (and haven't paid a CC account in over 5 years).. so my credit is shot at least for another 3 years. Looking at getting a secured credit card, just to REBUILD credit. I have been cash basis for about 4 years now. Fun and free but expensive, without perks.
I am able to save a little now, would like to buy a home, small piece of shit if anything (beats paying rent). Goal: buy close to work, stay 2 years, pay as much off, then rent the home, and relocate to a higher paying job..and repeat.
0
Good stuff fellas, nah, no credit card debt, haven't had a credit card in over 5 years (and haven't paid a CC account in over 5 years).. so my credit is shot at least for another 3 years. Looking at getting a secured credit card, just to REBUILD credit. I have been cash basis for about 4 years now. Fun and free but expensive, without perks.
I am able to save a little now, would like to buy a home, small piece of shit if anything (beats paying rent). Goal: buy close to work, stay 2 years, pay as much off, then rent the home, and relocate to a higher paying job..and repeat.
I think foreclosures are too good to be true. You see the prices on some of those homes, but I think you have to be very skilled, or have people working for banks on the inside.
Get your credit report from freecreditreport.com. You need to check up on it, and actually see what it is. It'll give you a better idea of where you're at, so you can set your goals accordingly.
You'll have to sign up for their little credit protector thing, for a free 30 day trial. I did it in June, and I think I'm going to continue to pay the $12 per month to continuously monitor mine, until it gets over that magical 720 I believe.
0
I think foreclosures are too good to be true. You see the prices on some of those homes, but I think you have to be very skilled, or have people working for banks on the inside.
Get your credit report from freecreditreport.com. You need to check up on it, and actually see what it is. It'll give you a better idea of where you're at, so you can set your goals accordingly.
You'll have to sign up for their little credit protector thing, for a free 30 day trial. I did it in June, and I think I'm going to continue to pay the $12 per month to continuously monitor mine, until it gets over that magical 720 I believe.
Trust me, its a constant struggle to keep my head above water. If I were still waiting tables, there would be no worries. I'd have cash flowing out my ears, and life would be good.
Who would have thought I would take a $20k pay cut, by graduating with 2 degrees and getting a real job?
The real world sucks.
0
Trust me, its a constant struggle to keep my head above water. If I were still waiting tables, there would be no worries. I'd have cash flowing out my ears, and life would be good.
Who would have thought I would take a $20k pay cut, by graduating with 2 degrees and getting a real job?
Trust me, its a constant struggle to keep my head above water. If I were still waiting tables, there would be no worries. I'd have cash flowing out my ears, and life would be good.
Who would have thought I would take a $20k pay cut, by graduating with 2 degrees and getting a real job?
The real world sucks.
You lost me on this post, let's stay positive.
0
Quote Originally Posted by hoopsstar22:
Trust me, its a constant struggle to keep my head above water. If I were still waiting tables, there would be no worries. I'd have cash flowing out my ears, and life would be good.
Who would have thought I would take a $20k pay cut, by graduating with 2 degrees and getting a real job?
I'm not in my 30's but I've got plenty of experience regarding student
loans and getting them paid off. Graduated 2 years ago with 70k
in a private and about 20k in a Gov't loan. Have the
private down to 23k and hit the federal for the minimum since it's
consolidated at 3.5%. Should be done with the private by
next May at the latest....When the private is done I will pay double
the minimum each month to start getting that one heading toward's
0.
For your situation, I'd advise the following if at all possible(I'm
assuming you don't have any crazy CC debt. If you do, pay the
minimum on the student loan). If no other debt, read on......
Do not start out by paying the minimum. Instead, flip it
around. Find out what works for your budget each month that you
can "afford" to put against the loan. At least aim to pay $300 a
month to begin with(i'd advise more if possible). The point being
that you want the lump sum of your loan to decrease FASTER at the top
due to simple finance. Makes sense but I didn't this theory in
the thread.
Say you get it down to 10k, move your payment down to $300 a month.
It should take you about another 3 years at $300 to say good bye
to it fully. If you did $400 a month until 10k(3 years and 1
month) and then $300 after, it would only take about 6 years and a few
months to be done with the loan.
Much better than 20 years and I would think $260 over the minimum for 3
years and then $160 for the rest of the life of the loan wouldn't break
the bank.
I also agree with Hoopstar. Move all you can of your CC's onto a
0% offer. The CD stuff at 5% really seems like a hassle for the
little bit it would help. You need capitol to make that worth it
but many have said that in this thread.
GL with whatever you do Wiz
Thank you sir! I appreciate the positive behavior and attitude. And wisdom.
0
Quote Originally Posted by soothsayer13:
Wiz-
I'm not in my 30's but I've got plenty of experience regarding student
loans and getting them paid off. Graduated 2 years ago with 70k
in a private and about 20k in a Gov't loan. Have the
private down to 23k and hit the federal for the minimum since it's
consolidated at 3.5%. Should be done with the private by
next May at the latest....When the private is done I will pay double
the minimum each month to start getting that one heading toward's
0.
For your situation, I'd advise the following if at all possible(I'm
assuming you don't have any crazy CC debt. If you do, pay the
minimum on the student loan). If no other debt, read on......
Do not start out by paying the minimum. Instead, flip it
around. Find out what works for your budget each month that you
can "afford" to put against the loan. At least aim to pay $300 a
month to begin with(i'd advise more if possible). The point being
that you want the lump sum of your loan to decrease FASTER at the top
due to simple finance. Makes sense but I didn't this theory in
the thread.
Say you get it down to 10k, move your payment down to $300 a month.
It should take you about another 3 years at $300 to say good bye
to it fully. If you did $400 a month until 10k(3 years and 1
month) and then $300 after, it would only take about 6 years and a few
months to be done with the loan.
Much better than 20 years and I would think $260 over the minimum for 3
years and then $160 for the rest of the life of the loan wouldn't break
the bank.
I also agree with Hoopstar. Move all you can of your CC's onto a
0% offer. The CD stuff at 5% really seems like a hassle for the
little bit it would help. You need capitol to make that worth it
but many have said that in this thread.
GL with whatever you do Wiz
Thank you sir! I appreciate the positive behavior and attitude. And wisdom.
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